South Asia | El-Branden Brazil

Faces Of A Challenging Childhood, India

Photography by El-Branden Brazil

Passing Time In Patan, Nepal

Photography by El-Branden Brazil

The Meenakshi Temple Of Madurai

Colourful godly stuccos at Meenakshi Temple. Photography by El-Branden Brazil

In the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu is the bustling, crowded city of Madurai. Within it, is one of Asia’s great wonders, the Meenakshi Temple. Dominating the city’s skyline, 12 gopurams (temple towers) burst out towards the skies, engraved with thousands upon thousands of colourful images of Hindu gods and scenes. The temple is devoted to the god, Shiva.

Temple Offerings Photography by El-Branden Brazil

The ground on which the current buildings are located, has been the focus of religious rites since the 7th. Century. Much of the grand architecture that defines the temple today, was constructed by the Nayaks during their tenure as rulers of Madurai from the Sixteenth to the Eighteenth Centuries.

Within the walls of the complex are many small temples, where offerings of oil, incense, colourful powders, candles and flowers are placed.

There are several different sanctums that the worshipper passes through. The inner sanctum is a space for only Hindus to enter. Becoming disorientated by the vast complex, I accidently entered into this space. It was poorly lit and extremely atmospheric.

A large statue of Ganesh, illuminated by candles, caught my eye. As I was preparing to take a photograph, I was soon made aware of my mistake, when a sadhu (holy man) shouted at me to leave. Another man, came to me, and politely told me that I was not permitted to visit this area. I apologised appropriately and left quickly, so as not to further offend. However, I felt rather lucky and blessed to have entered the holy of holies and get more than a peek. I meant no harm nor disrespect.

The Sacred Bodhnath, Kathmandu

Photography by El-Branden Brazil

India – A Land Of Contrasts

Photography by El-Branden Brazil

As much as I love life in Japan, the pristine orderliness and routine often leaves my soul craving for the vibrancy and spontaneity of chaos found in other places. For myself, India is the perfect antidote. Every visit to this extraordinary land, has been an experience that touches a myriad of emotions, in a way that challenges an individual like nowhere else.

India has a diverse population of one billion, that consists of both a massive rapidly growing bourgeois, as well as people living in poverty on a scale that is hard to match anywhere else. Out from these contrasting ways of life is a society that simultaneously exists in a multitude of realities. With such extraordinary variance, it is surprising that any kind of semblance of order can be achieved. And yet, India functions as it has always done, through local ingenuity.

Perhaps, the most pervading aspect of the country is the religiosity of life there. The majority of Indians are adherents to Hinduism, but other religions, such as Sikhism, Buddhism, Jainism and Islam, have a wide following. For the most part, members of the various faiths have tended to live together peacefully, but occasionally, tensions do flare between the different communities.

India has always been attractive to those fond of spiritual exploration. Of course, everywhere are the symbols and temples of devotion that one would expect to find. Yet, India’s powerful invocation of the mystical, comes not from these, but rather from the contrasts that are to be found, such as extremes in beauty and ugliness, poverty and wealth, vibrancy and starkness. On every street that is walked, we are forced to accommodate stimuli that are both pleasing and disturbing.

It is often said that 50% of travellers hate India, whilst 50% love it. For myself, I very much fall into the latter group. That is not to say that I do not sympathise with the other group’s sense of discomfort, but rather I find the “discomfort” to be part of the wonderful challenge that India presents.

India is a unique gift to us all, and should be experienced at least once. When you return back to your home countries, you will be forever changed, and you will never forget the magic of Mother India.